Down: When you need Dinky to stay in one place for a long time, you can’t expect him to sit or stand. This is when the down command really comes in handy.
Begin teaching the down command to your Chihuahua in the sitting position. Say “Dinky, down.” Then show him a tidbit, and move it below his nose toward the ground. If he reaches down to get it, give it to him. Repeat, requiring Dinky to reach farther down (without lifting his rear from the ground) until he has to lower his elbows to the ground.
This is easier if he is on a raised surface and you lower the tidbit below the level of that surface, so he is peering over the edge. Never try to cram him into the down position, which can scare a submissive dog and cause a dominant dog to resist. Practice the down/stay just as you did the sit/stay.
Heel: A pup’s first experience walking on leash should be positive. Use a very lightweight lead; a show lead is ideal. Never drag a reluctant pup or let him hit the end of the lead. Start by coaxing him a few steps at a time with food. When he follows you, praise and reward. In this way, he begins to realize that following you while walking on lead brings rewards.
Once your Chihuahua is prancing alongside, ask a little more of him. Even if you have no intention of teaching a perfect competition heel, Dinky should know how to walk politely at your side.
Have Dinky sit in heel position; that is, on your left side with his neck next to and parallel with your leg. If you line up your feet and your dog’s front feet, that’s close enough. Say “Dinky, heel,” and step off with your left foot first. During your first few practice sessions, keep him on a short lead, holding him in heel position, and of course praising him.
The traditional method of letting him lunge to the end of the lead and then snapping him back is unfair to any dog if you have not first shown him what you expect. This is dangerous for a Chihuahua in any event. Instead, after a few sessions of showing him heel position, give him a little more loose lead and use a tidbit or your long aiming stick to guide Dinky into the correct position.
If Dinky still forges ahead after you have shown him what is expected, stop dead in your tracks. Don’t pull back; just stand there. Only when he lets the leash go slack do you say “Good!” and reward or move forward. Practice this until he stops pulling as soon as you stop. Next walk toward something he wants to reach. If he pulls, stop or even back up.
The point is not to jerk your dog back, but to show him that pulling gets him there more slowly. When he stops pulling, go toward the goal again. The goal is his reward, but the only way he can reach it is to stop pulling! Never jerk your dog or let him hit the end of the leash or do anything that could possibly hurt his neck. Some Chihuahuas are predisposed to tracheal collapse, and such rough techniques could precipitate problems.
Keep up a normal pace that requires your dog to walk fairly briskly. Too slow a pace gives him time to sniff and sightsee. A brisk pace will focus his attention upon you. Add some about-faces, right and left turns, and walking at different speeds. Teach Dinky to sit every time you stop. Vary your routine to combat boredom. Be sure to give the “OK” command before allowing Dinky to sniff, forge, and meander on lead.
Tools of the Trade
The secret of training is not in the tools; it’s in the trainer. Still, having the right tools can make things go a bit easier. Basic training equipment usually includes both short (6-foot or 1.8 m) and long (about 20-foot or 6.1 m) lightweight leads and a collar. Traditionally, a choke collar has been used. However, many trainers prefer a buckle collar for training Chihuahuas.
A special Chihuahua-training tool that some people find handy is a solid leash. This is a hollow, lightweight tube the leash can be strung through. This is handy for teaching heeling so that you can guide your dog better. Otherwise, when you pull on the leash it just pulls upward. With the solid leash, you can direct the pull in one direction or another.
Getting this to work properly does take some practice, however. In addition, many dogs are skittish about a stick that seems to hover over their head. Thus, the solid lead does not work for all trainers or dogs.
Another Chihuahua tool is a lightweight stick you can use to point to where you want your Chihuahua to face. You do this by giving your Chihuahua a bit of food when he touches the end of the stick with his nose. Then, once he has the hang of that, you can guide his nose (along with the rest of his body, which must follow) by moving the stick. Other trainers prefer to use the stick as an extension for their own hands so they can gently tap (not hit!) or guide the dogs into position without bending over every time.
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